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Ocracoke 20-B
Latest News: Photos of the first Ocracoke 20-B launched in Australia. Reported 39 knots with a 150 Yamaha.
Check out the Builders Logs Library for the Ocracoke 20/20B to see some great build threads.
Following the development of the Ocracoke 256, we have had countless requests for a bracketed version of the Ocracoke 20. Well, here she is! The Ocracoke 20B incorporates the same integral bracket as the 256 but in the smaller 20′ package.
We also increased the deadrise to 16 degrees to improve her rough water capability which also helps offset the weight of the motor aft. We’ve incorporated all the bells and whistles in this new kit including optimizing stringer positions to make framing even easier. We’ve also developed a more complete kit with more CNC cut parts to help save even more time on the build. Just like the 20, she is NOT a stitch and glue “introduction to boat building” type of boat and we we don’t recommend this as a first build. However, if you are familiar with working with wood, epoxy, and fiberglass then she should present no problems for the patient builder.
Ocracoke 20B :
LOA (hull)……22′-5″ [6.8m]
LOA (motor)…~24′-9″ [7.5m]
LWL………16′-4” [4.98m]
BEAM………7′-10” [2.39m] overall
DRAFT/ hull………10 7/8″ [27.6 cm] @ DWL
*DISPLACEMENT…2200 lbs (1000 kg) @ DWL
Fuel….47gal
Bare hull weight ~1550lbs (703 kg)
Dry Weight including 90 hp motor…~1900lbs (861 kg) depending on materials and options*
Pounds Per I” immersion 425lbs (193kilos)
Deadrise at transom… 16 degrees
Horsepower… 90 recommended , 150 (max)
*weight @ designer’s suggested materials; different plywoods and/or different fiberglass weight and optional gear will change boat weight.
NEW: Click here to download the WEIGHT STUDY Spreadsheet where you can see how the boat will trim with different motors. DWL is with 90hp motor. Larger motors will change trim angle!
Construction technique is identical to that of the Ocracoke 20. The main difference is that the bottom stringers extend through cutouts in the transom to form webs for the bracket. The first, third and fifth frames are temporary jig frames. A cant frame at the bow keeps the sheer clamp in check and at the proper curvature. All of the rest of the structure stays in the boat.
The bottom of the hull is planked with a single layer of 1/2″ (12mm) plywood in the aft sections and 2 layers of 1/4″ (6mm) ply with staggered seams in the forward section. The developed bottom shape means that the bottom panel is glued down in one piece (bent over the jig) followed by the second layer of planking forward. (Picture below as shown on planking plan).The sides are planked with two layers of 3/16″ (4mm) ply using the Ashcroft method which means both layers run diagonally in the same direction, the seams in the two layers are staggered.
The entire boat is epoxy and fiber-glassed inside and out which makes for a very strong tough structure. The complete encapsulation of the wood creates a very low maintenance and a long-lived boat. Epoxy primer and 2 part polyurethane provide an extremely durable finish.